We are reader supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Also, as an Amazon affiliate, we earn from qualifying purchases.
African cichlids are bold, active, and smart, but their success in a home aquarium depends on details that many beginners miss. Substrate is one of those details. The right sand or gravel will stabilize pH, support natural digging behavior, protect gills and mouths, and make your fish bolder and healthier. The wrong choice can lead to stress, cloudy water, and unstable chemistry. This guide explains the best substrates for African cichlids, how to match them to your species, and how to set them up for clear, stable water and easy maintenance.
Why Substrate Matters for African Cichlids
African cichlids from Lakes Malawi, Tanganyika, and Victoria prefer alkaline, hard water. Substrate can:
1. Buffer pH and KH. Calcium-based substrates like aragonite slowly dissolve and raise carbonate hardness, keeping pH high and stable.
2. Support behavior. Many cichlids dig pits, sift sand for food, or bury shells. Fine sand allows this without injury.
3. Influence cleanliness. Correct grain size prevents dirt from sinking deep, making waste easy to remove.
4. Shape aggression. Open sand zones and rock stacks set territories and reduce chasing.
5. Enhance color. Light natural sand reflects light and can make coloration pop.
Key Water Parameters to Support With Substrate
Aim for stable, alkaline water. In beginner-friendly ranges:
pH around 7.8 to 8.6 works for most African cichlids. KH should be high enough to prevent pH swings. GH should reflect hard water. Substrate can help by slowly releasing minerals, but do not rely on substrate alone. Combine good maintenance with buffering substrate or filter media. Stability is more important than chasing exact numbers day to day.
Types of Substrates and When to Use Them
Aragonite Sand
Aragonite is a calcium carbonate form from marine sources. It lightly buffers KH and pH, which suits Malawi and Tanganyika tanks. It comes in different grades. Fine oolitic aragonite is ideal for sand sifters and shell dwellers. Special grade aragonite with 1 to 2 mm grains resists compaction and still allows digging. It is generally safe for gills and mouths.
Choose aragonite when you want gentle, continuous buffering without adding powders to the water column. It is a strong default for most African cichlid setups.
Crushed Coral or Crushed Shell
Crushed coral or shell also contains calcium carbonate and buffers the water. The downside is that the pieces can be more angular and larger than fine aragonite sands. Some keepers mix small amounts into finer sand to boost buffering while keeping the surface smooth.
Another effective method is to place crushed coral in a mesh bag inside your filter. That delivers buffering without changing the feel of the substrate.
Cichlid Sand Blends
Some products are marketed as cichlid sands. These blends often include aragonite fractions and are pre-rinsed. They are convenient and balanced for grain size, color, and buffering. They cost more than bulk options, but they spare you rinsing and guesswork.
Pool Filter Sand
Pool filter sand is clean, uniform, and affordable. Grain size is often 0.5 to 1 mm, which is comfortable for sand sifters and not too dusty. It is inert, so it will not raise pH. Many keepers combine pool filter sand with crushed coral in the filter to get both comfort and buffering. This combo gives you control of chemistry without paying a premium for specialty substrates.
Silica Sand and Inert Options
Silica sand and other inert sands look clean and natural. They do not buffer water. Use them when your tap water is already hard and alkaline, or when you prefer to manage buffering with filter media. Choose a medium grain that resists compaction. Ultra fine silica can pack too tightly and trap dirt.
Play Sand
Play sand is cheap but often too fine and dirty for aquariums. It can compact, cloud water, and trap waste. If you must use it, rinse very thoroughly and be ready for extra maintenance. For African cichlids, better options exist with less risk and less work.
Gravel and Why It Often Fails
Coarse gravel does not suit sand sifters or shell dwellers and can injure mouths during digging. It also lets waste sink deep where siphons cannot reach, fueling nitrate spikes. If you like the look of gravel, pick a very small rounded grade and mix with sand. For most African cichlid tanks, sand alone is the safer choice.
Matching Substrate to Species and Setups
Malawi Mbuna Rock Dwellers
Mbuna dig a lot and produce heavy waste. Use aragonite sand or a cichlid blend with 1 to 2 mm grains. Depth of about 2 inches is a good starting point. Build tall rock piles with solid bases. Leaves plenty of open sand in front to keep detritus visible and easy to remove. Aragonite’s buffering helps with their preference for alkaline conditions.
Peacocks and Haps from Lake Malawi
Aulonocara and many haplochromines cruise open areas and often sift sand. Fine oolitic aragonite or smooth pool filter sand lets them feed naturally. Keep the sand soft and shallow enough that they can push it around. Use aragonite if your water needs buffering, or use inert sand plus crushed coral in the filter.
Tanganyika Shell Dwellers
Shell dwellers like Neolamprologus multifasciatus and similis move sand to bury and position shells. They need fine, smooth sand, ideally oolitic aragonite or similar sugar-sized grain. Provide a depth of roughly 2 inches and a field of shells. Avoid gravel. The combination of fine sand and shells is essential for their natural behavior.
Tanganyika Sand Sifters
Species such as Xenotilapia and Ectodus need very fine, clean sand, generally 0.2 to 1 mm. Aragonite is helpful because Tanganyika fish thrive in high pH and hardness. Keep the surface open and flat to encourage natural foraging. Reduce large rock piles that trap detritus in sand sifter tanks.
Lake Victoria Species
Victoria cichlids also prefer alkaline water but are often more flexible. Inert sand can work well if your source water is already hard and stable. If your pH drops between water changes, add crushed coral in the filter or choose aragonite sand.
Grain Size, Depth, and Layout
Grain size is not cosmetic. It decides whether your fish can dig and sift safely, and whether waste stays accessible for cleaning.
Choose fine to medium sand. For sand sifters and shell dwellers, use 0.2 to 1 mm. For mbuna and mixed Malawi tanks, use 1 to 2 mm. Avoid sharp, angular pieces that can irritate gills and mouths.
Depth of about 2 inches is a practical target. It gives fish room to dig and rearrange while limiting the risk of deep anaerobic pockets. If fish build mounds or pits, that is fine. Just avoid deep stagnant corners.
Layout matters. Create open sand zones for feeding and swimming. Place rock piles for territories and cover. Put rocks on the tank bottom or on an egg crate sheet before adding sand. That prevents rock shifts when fish dig and reduces pressure points on the glass.
How Much Substrate to Buy
A simple rule is about 1 pound of sand per gallon for roughly 1 inch of depth. For around 2 inches, plan 1.5 to 2 pounds per gallon depending on tank footprint.
You can also estimate using dimensions. Multiply tank length by width by desired depth in inches, then divide by 20 to get a rough pounds estimate for sand. For example, a 48 by 18 inch tank at 2 inches depth gives 48 x 18 x 2 ÷ 20 equals about 86 pounds. Buy a little extra to account for rinsing losses and scaping.
Setup Steps for a Clear, Stable Tank
1. Rinse substrate. Even pre-washed sand benefits from a quick rinse. Place sand in a bucket, fill with water, stir, and pour off the cloudy water until it runs mostly clear.
2. Secure the base. Place an egg crate sheet on the bottom if you keep heavy rocks. Set rocks directly on the bottom or egg crate, not on top of sand, to prevent collapses when fish dig.
3. Add sand. Pour it around the rock bases to lock them in. Smooth the surface, leaving open lanes for flow and cleaning.
4. Fill gently. Place a plate or plastic bag on the sand and pour water onto it to avoid disturbing the bed.
5. Protect equipment. Keep filter intakes several centimeters above the sand. Add prefilter sponges to stop grains from entering impellers.
6. Start filtration and cycle. Aragonite stabilizes pH, but it does not replace biological filtration. Let the tank cycle fully before adding a full stocking of cichlids.
Maintenance and Long Term Care
Maintain the surface clean and oxygenated. During weekly water changes, hover a siphon just above the sand to lift waste without sucking the substrate. In corners and behind rocks, gently stir the top layer with your fingers or a stick to prevent stagnant spots. Avoid deep vacuuming the entire bed since that can disrupt beneficial bacteria.
Add a prefilter sponge to each intake and rinse it weekly. Keep intakes off the sand and direct flow so detritus moves toward open areas. If you use aragonite, expect slow dissolution over time. Top up the bed as needed and replace or refresh buffering media in filters if pH begins to drift downward between changes.
Buffering Tricks Without Changing Substrate
If you like inert sand for its look but need more alkalinity, place crushed coral or aragonite in a mesh bag inside your filter. Water passing over the media dissolves a small amount of calcium carbonate and raises KH and pH gradually. This approach avoids stirring up the tank while giving you tuning control. Combine this with regular water changes to maintain stability.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Using gravel that is too coarse or sharp often backfires. It traps waste and can injure fish that dig. Skipping rinsing leads to cloudy water and clogged filters. Making the sand bed too deep creates dead zones. Placing rocks on top of sand risks collapses when fish tunnel. Allowing sand to enter the filter can damage impellers, so keep intakes off the bottom and use sponges. Dyed sands can leach color or look unnatural under bright lights. Keep it simple, stable, and easy to clean.
Budget and Sourcing Tips
Pool filter sand is a reliable, low cost base. Pair it with crushed coral in the filter if you need buffering. Aragonite sands cost more but provide set and forget buffering, which can save effort. Buy in bulk to reduce cost per pound, especially for large tanks. Neutral, light colored sands look natural and reflect fish colors well. Avoid ultra fine play sand grades that compact and create dust.
Practical Substrate Picks by Goal
If you want maximum buffering and ease, choose aragonite sand in fine to medium grade. If you want the lowest cost with control, choose pool filter sand plus crushed coral in the filter. For shell dwellers and sand sifters, choose fine oolitic sand. For mixed Malawi communities with heavy digging, choose medium aragonite or a cichlid blend around 1 to 2 mm.
Troubleshooting Cloudy Water and pH Swings
Cloudy water after setup usually comes from dust. Run fine mechanical filtration and polish with filter floss until clear. If cloudiness returns after every maintenance, your sand may be too fine or not rinsed enough. Consider mixing in a slightly coarser grade to lock the bed.
pH swings point to low KH or an overloaded tank. Increase water change frequency, use buffering substrate or place crushed coral in the filter, and avoid overfeeding. Aim for gradual changes to protect fish.
Putting It All Together
The best substrate for African cichlids is one that keeps water stable and lets fish act naturally. For most beginners, aragonite sand in a fine to medium grade is the safest default because it buffers pH and feels comfortable. If you prefer to save money, pair pool filter sand with crushed coral in your filter. Match grain size to your species, target around 2 inches of depth, set rocks on the bottom before sand, and protect your filters from grains. Keep the surface clean with light siphoning and good flow. With those basics in place, your cichlids will dig, sift, and display their best colors with confidence.
Conclusion
Substrate is not decoration. It is a tool for water stability, natural behavior, and long term health. Choose aragonite when you want built in buffering. Choose inert sand with coral in the filter when you want control and low cost. Size the grains to your fish, plan a stable layout, and keep the surface clean. When substrate works for your fish instead of against them, the result is a calmer tank, stronger color, and simpler maintenance.
FAQ
Q: What is the best substrate for African cichlids
A: For most beginners, fine to medium aragonite sand is the safest choice because it buffers pH and is comfortable for digging and sifting.
Q: How deep should the sand be
A: Around 2 inches is a practical target. It allows digging without creating excessive deep pockets that can go stagnant.
Q: Can I use pool filter sand with African cichlids
A: Yes. Pool filter sand is a clean, affordable inert option. Pair it with crushed coral in the filter if you need buffering.
Q: Do I need to vacuum the sand
A: Hover the siphon just above the sand during water changes to lift waste, and gently stir corners and behind rocks to prevent stagnant spots.
Q: Will sand get into my filter and cause damage
A: Keep intakes several centimeters above the sand and add prefilter sponges. This prevents grains from entering and protects impellers.