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Ghost shrimp and Amano shrimp are two of the most useful and engaging invertebrates you can keep. They clean up leftover food, graze on algae and biofilm, and bring constant activity to a planted tank. This guide explains how to set up the tank, dial in water parameters, pick safe tank mates, feed correctly, avoid common mistakes, and even try breeding. If you want a clear plan that works from day one, keep reading.
Quick species snapshot
Ghost shrimp at a glance
Common name: Ghost shrimp. Often sold as feeder shrimp. True species vary by region and may include Palaemonetes paludosus and related species. Size up to 3 to 4 cm. Lifespan typically 1 to 2 years. Clear body, small dots on the carapace, and a slender shape. Active scavengers that pick at everything. In mixed tanks they may snack on very small fry or baby shrimp if hungry.
Ghost shrimp breed in freshwater in some species, while others produce larvae that still do fine in freshwater. Fry survival in community tanks is low because filtration and fish predation remove most larvae. If you want a self-sustaining group, set up a dedicated nano tank with sponge filtration and heavy moss.
Amano shrimp at a glance
Scientific name: Caridina multidentata. Size up to 5 to 6 cm as adults. Lifespan 2 to 5 years with stable water and good diet. Body is translucent gray with small lateral dots or dashes. Known as strong algae grazers that keep soft algae and diatoms under control. More robust than ghost shrimp once settled but still sensitive to ammonia and sudden parameter swings.
Amano shrimp will not complete their life cycle in freshwater. Larvae must be raised in brackish water. Adult Amanos are peaceful and rarely bother other livestock. They do get bold during feeding time and can outcompete timid fish for pellets.
Key differences that matter
Size and lifespan: Amanos grow larger and often live longer. Algae work: Amanos are more consistent algae grazers, especially on soft algae and diatoms. Ghost shrimp are generalist scavengers and nibble algae only opportunistically. Breeding: Ghost shrimp may reproduce in your tank depending on the exact species. Amanos require a brackish larval stage. Temperament: Both are peaceful, but ghost shrimp may grab tiny fry or freshly molted micro shrimp if underfed.
Water parameters that keep shrimp alive
Temperature and pH
Ghost shrimp: 20 to 27 C, 68 to 80 F. pH 6.8 to 8.0. Mid 70s F is a good target for mixed communities. Colder water slows growth but reduces stress and extends lifespan.
Amano shrimp: 20 to 26 C, 68 to 79 F. pH 6.5 to 7.8. Maintain stable temperature and avoid rapid swings. Stability matters more than chasing a perfect number.
Hardness, minerals, and TDS
Calcium and magnesium drive healthy molting and shell formation. Use GH and KH test kits and track TDS with a meter. Targets for ghost shrimp: GH 6 to 12 dGH, KH 2 to 8 dKH, TDS 150 to 300 ppm. Targets for Amano shrimp: GH 5 to 12 dGH, KH 1 to 6 dKH, TDS 120 to 250 ppm.
If you use reverse osmosis or distilled water, remineralize every change. Aim for a calcium to magnesium ratio near 3 to 1. Commercial shrimp mineral salts make this easy. Avoid large TDS swings. Try to keep changes within 30 ppm per water change.
Nitrogen waste and oxygen
Ammonia and nitrite must remain at zero. Nitrate under 20 ppm is a good goal for shrimp health. High oxygen helps shrimp thrive. Surface agitation and clean filters prevent hidden oxygen dips at night, especially in planted tanks with heavy biomass.
Tank setup that works from day one
Tank size recommendations
Ghost shrimp: 10 gallons or larger is more stable and supports a group of 10 to 20. You can keep 5 to 10 in a well-filtered, planted 5 gallon, but stability is harder for beginners.
Amano shrimp: 10 to 20 gallons or more is ideal. A group of 5 to 8 in a 20 gallon keeps algae pressure down without overcrowding. Larger tanks buffer parameter swings and give more grazing area.
Filtration and flow
Use a sponge filter or a canister or hang-on-back filter with a pre-filter sponge on the intake. This protects shrimplets and preserves biofilm. Moderate flow with strong surface ripple ensures oxygenation without blowing the shrimp around. Clean sponges in tank water, not tap water, to preserve beneficial bacteria.
Substrate, botanicals, and plants
Fine sand or small rounded gravel works well. Dark substrates help shrimp feel secure and bring out color. Add botanicals like Indian almond leaves or oak leaves to grow biofilm and provide tannins. Cholla wood and small driftwood create grazing surfaces and hides.
Plants create food and shelter. Anubias, Java fern, mosses, rotalas, and floating plants all work. Moss is essential if you plan to raise shrimplets. More leaf area means more biofilm and more foraging time.
Hides and molt shelters
Provide caves, ceramic tubes, rock piles, and dense plant thickets. Shrimp are vulnerable during and immediately after molting. If they can hide, failed molts and aggression risk drop significantly.
Cycling and a shrimp-safe start
Cycle the tank before adding shrimp. Use a fishless cycle with bottled bacteria and an ammonia source, or move seasoned media from a healthy tank. Confirm zero ammonia and nitrite for at least a week. Add shrimp only after stable readings. Patience here prevents the most common cause of early losses.
Stocking and acclimation
How many shrimp per tank
Ghost shrimp: start with 10 to 15 in a 10 gallon, or 15 to 25 in a 20 gallon. Avoid overcrowding if you want to try breeding. Amano shrimp: 5 to 8 in a 20 gallon handles light to moderate algae. You can go higher if algae is heavy, but long term feeding must match the bio-load.
Drip acclimation that prevents shock
Float the bag to match temperature for 15 to 20 minutes. Move shrimp and bag water into a clean container. Start a siphon drip from the tank using airline tubing and a valve. Aim for 2 to 4 drops per second. Acclimate 60 to 90 minutes. Net the shrimp into the tank. Discard store water and do not pour it into your aquarium.
The first 48 hours
Dim the lights and feed very lightly. Ensure strong aeration and stable temperature. Expect some hiding. Do not chase or handle newly added shrimp. First-day deaths usually indicate parameter mismatch or an uncycled tank. Always test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, GH, KH, and TDS after introduction if you see distress.
Feeding done right
Daily routine and variety
These shrimp graze all day, but your food choices determine long-term health. Feed small amounts once daily or every other day. Offer a rotation: quality shrimp pellets, algae wafers, blanched zucchini or spinach, spirulina-based foods, and occasional protein treats like bloodworms or high-protein pellets. Remove uneaten food after a few hours.
Leaf litter such as Indian almond leaves or oak leaves is a steady biofilm source. A piece of cuttlebone in the filter or tucked under decor can support calcium levels. Do not overdo protein. High protein without mineral support can increase failed molts.
Algae control reality
Amano shrimp eat diatoms, soft green algae, and short hair algae best. They rarely tackle black beard algae unless underfed and even then results are mixed. Ghost shrimp focus on leftovers, detritus, and biofilm. They will not maintain a glass-green tank by themselves. Keep feeding light, manage lighting duration, and maintain fertilization balance for healthy plant growth that outcompetes algae.
Mineral supplements and myths
Use a proven remineralizer to set GH and KH. Mineral stones and cuttlebone help stabilize calcium but do not replace GH management. Iodine dosing is often promoted, but in a balanced tank with regular water changes and proper GH, extra iodine is unnecessary. Focus on stable GH and clean water instead.
Tank mates that do not hunt them
Good companions
Choose peaceful, small fish that will not view shrimp as prey. Chili rasboras, ember tetras, green neon tetras, celestial pearl danios, ricefish, and small Corydoras species work well. Otocinclus are safe and complement Amanos in algae control. Nerite snails and ramshorn snails are reliable partners.
Fish to avoid
Any fish big enough to fit a shrimp in its mouth is a risk. Avoid cichlids, angelfish, goldfish, larger barbs, most loaches, and pufferfish. Some bettas and gouramis will hunt shrimp even with heavy cover. If you try a betta, plant heavily, add many hides, and be ready to separate. Crayfish and predatory crabs are not compatible.
Mixing with other shrimp
Amano shrimp mix well with Neocaridina and most Caridina when parameter needs overlap. Ghost shrimp can live with Neocaridina, but they may eat baby shrimp if hungry. There is no crossbreeding between Amano, ghost, or Neocaridina, so genetics are safe. Match water parameters to the most sensitive species in the mix.
Behavior and reading signals
Normal activity
Healthy shrimp roam, graze, fan pleopods, and occasionally swim short distances. Females may show a saddle behind the head when developing eggs, and berried females carry green to brown eggs under the abdomen. Most feeding activity peaks at dusk and during lights-off periods.
Stress signals
Warning signs include frantic surface swimming, clustering at the surface, lying on one side, pink or milky body color, curled tail without control, and abandoned molts with shrimp still lethargic. These point to ammonia, low oxygen, copper exposure, or a failed molt.
Immediate steps
Test water on the spot. If ammonia or nitrite is present, perform a 30 to 50 percent water change with matched temperature, GH, KH, and TDS. Add aeration. Check for recent sprays, soaps, or aerosol contamination in the room. Remove any new decor that may leach metals.
Molting, growth, and long-term health
Support every molt
Shrimp grow by molting. Keep GH stable and provide hides. Do not handle a shrimp that is molting or immediately after. If you see a shrimp stuck in its molt, resist the urge to pull the shell. Stabilize water, increase oxygen, and wait. Most failed molts trace back to poor minerals or large parameter swings.
Common health problems
External parasites like Vorticella appear as white fuzz. Scutariella on the head or gills looks like tiny leeches. Planaria flatworms prey on weak shrimplets. Reduce feeding, clean the substrate lightly, and improve filtration to reduce outbreaks. Treatments with fenbendazole are commonly used for planaria, but dose carefully and research the impact on snails and biofilm. Salt dips can help with some external issues for ghost shrimp; use short dips in 1 to 2 percent salt solution with close observation. Amano shrimp are more sensitive to dips, so proceed only if you know the method well.
Copper and medication safety
Copper is toxic to shrimp even at low levels. Many fish medications and some algae killers contain copper. Check labels for copper sulfate or chelated copper. Plant fertilizers often contain trace copper, which is usually safe at recommended doses in a planted tank, but avoid overdosing. If you must medicate fish, move shrimp to a safe quarantine tank first.
Breeding notes
Ghost shrimp breeding in freshwater
In many ghost shrimp species, females carry eggs for 2 to 4 weeks and release free-swimming larvae or very small post-larvae. In a shrimp-only tank with sponge filtration, dense moss, and constant microfood, some fry can survive. Feed powdered foods like spirulina powder, fine fry food, and infusoria. Keep flow low, cover intakes with fine sponge, and maintain constant light to promote microalgae and biofilm. Expect varied success because store ghost shrimp often include mixed species with different larval needs.
Amano shrimp breeding requires brackish stage
Berried Amano females carry thousands of tiny eggs for 4 to 6 weeks. Larvae look like tiny specks and drift toward light. Move larvae to brackish water at 15 to 20 ppt salinity within a day of release. Use marine salt mix, not freshwater aquarium salt. Maintain 24 to 26 C, gentle aeration, and constant green water or feed marine microalgae and powdered spirulina. Keep ammonia and nitrite at zero with frequent small water changes.
Metamorphosis to post-larval shrimp takes 25 to 45 days depending on temperature and food. Once metamorphosed, step salinity down over several days to freshwater. This project requires dedicated equipment and careful timing. It is rewarding but not necessary for enjoying adult Amano shrimp in a display tank.
How to sex them
Ghost shrimp females are larger with a broader abdomen. Gravid females show eggs under the abdomen. Amano females are larger than males and show more continuous rows of dots or dashes along the sides, while males have more separated spots. Observation during feeding is the easiest time to confirm.
Buying healthy shrimp and quarantine
Picking good stock
Look for active shrimp that graze and respond to food. Avoid tanks with dead shrimp, milky bodies, curled antennae, or lethargy. Transparent shells with a clean sheen are a good sign. With ghost shrimp, feeder-grade stock is often weaker and short-lived; pay a little more for hobby-grade where possible. Many Amano shrimp are wild-caught and may carry external hitchhikers; quarantine is wise.
Quarantine protocol
Set up a 5 to 10 gallon quarantine with a sponge filter, moss, and leaf litter. Observe new shrimp for 2 to 4 weeks. Avoid prophylactic chemical treatments unless you have a confirmed issue. Feed lightly, test often, and keep conditions identical to the display tank. Move shrimp with a net only and do not transfer store water. Treat new plants for planaria and hydra before adding to the display.
Maintenance schedule and checklists
Weekly tasks
Test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, GH, KH, and TDS. Change 20 to 30 percent of the water, matching temperature and TDS within 30 ppm. Vacuum lightly to remove excess debris without stripping biofilm. Rinse pre-filter sponges in removed tank water. Trim plants to keep flow paths open and prevent dead spots.
Monthly tasks
Clean filter impellers and tubing. Deep-clean one part of the filter at a time to preserve bacteria. Recheck calibration of test kits and TDS meter. Inspect hardscape for trapped detritus. Replace botanicals as they break down. Review livestock feeding quantity and adjust if nitrate creeps up.
Vacation coverage
Healthy planted tanks with leaf litter and biofilm can handle a week without feeding. For longer trips, use a trusted sitter with clear instructions to feed very small amounts twice a week. Pre-portion the food to avoid overfeeding.
Troubleshooting quick answers
Deaths after a water change
Likely causes are TDS shock, temperature swing, or residual chlorine or chloramine. Always dechlorinate, match temperature, and match TDS as closely as possible. Avoid changing more than 30 percent unless an emergency demands it.
No interest in algae
Overfeeding reduces algae grazing. Cut added food, increase flow slightly, and clean mechanical filters to boost oxygen. Verify the algae type. Amanos prefer soft green algae and diatoms; they ignore hard spot algae.
Cloudy water
New tanks often experience a bacterial bloom. Reduce feeding, increase aeration, and be patient. Confirm zero ammonia and nitrite. Do not overclean bio media, and avoid large, frequent parameter swings that restart blooms.
Escape prevention
Use a lid. Cover gaps around filter pipes with mesh or craft foam. Keep water level a few centimeters below the rim. Secure airline holes. Strong surface flow discourages surface climbing.
Example setups
10 gallon ghost shrimp community
Equipment: sponge filter plus small hang-on-back with pre-filter sponge, heater set to 22 to 24 C, fine sand, driftwood, and moss. Parameters: pH 7.2, GH 8 dGH, KH 3 dKH, TDS 200 ppm. Stock: 12 ghost shrimp, 8 chili rasboras, 6 pygmy corydoras, and 3 nerite snails. Feeding: small shrimp pellets on alternate days, blanched zucchini weekly, minimal fish flakes. Maintenance: weekly 25 percent water change, lightly vacuum. Expect occasional ghost shrimp babies if flow is low and moss is dense.
20 gallon planted with an Amano team
Equipment: canister filter with spray bar for surface ripple, heater at 23 to 24 C, pressurized CO2 at a moderate level, well-fertilized plants with consistent routine. Parameters: pH 6.8 to 7.2, GH 6 to 8 dGH, KH 2 to 4 dKH, TDS 170 to 220 ppm. Stock: 8 Amano shrimp, 12 ember tetras, 10 celestial pearl danios, 6 otocinclus, and 4 nerite snails. Feeding: rotate algae wafers, spirulina pellets, and light frozen foods for fish. Keep a steady photoperiod of 7 to 8 hours. Results: stable algae control with Amanos focusing on diatoms and soft algae while plants fill in.
Advanced tips that improve success
CO2 and fertilizers
CO2 injection can be used safely with shrimp if you maintain strong surface agitation and keep CO2 levels consistent. Avoid big CO2 swings at lights on and lights off. Use complete fertilizers at recommended doses and maintain nitrates and phosphates within plant-friendly ranges. Shrimp tolerate trace copper in fertilizers when used correctly. Overdosing is the risk to avoid.
Stable routines beat perfect numbers
Pick a reasonable parameter set and keep it steady. Large, frequent changes in TDS, temperature, or pH cause more problems than running slightly outside an ideal range. Consistency in feeding, lighting, and water changes leads to better molts, stronger immune response, and predictable breeding behavior.
Legal and ethical notes
Never release aquarium shrimp into local waterways. Some regions restrict collection or import of certain shrimp. Buy from reputable sellers who avoid mislabeling and who handle shrimp with proper acclimation and quarantine practices.
Conclusion
Ghost shrimp and Amano shrimp reward careful setup with constant activity, cleaner substrate, and healthier plants. Focus on a mature, stable tank with zero ammonia and nitrite, moderate GH and KH, and strong oxygenation. Feed lightly but with variety, provide leaf litter and moss, and protect them during molting with plenty of hides. Choose tank mates that do not hunt them. If you want to breed, ghost shrimp can sometimes be raised in freshwater with dedication, while Amano shrimp require a brackish larval stage and a specific process.
Start with stability, observe daily, and let the shrimp teach you what they need. With the right foundation, both ghost shrimp and Amano shrimp will thrive and become the backbone of a balanced, low-maintenance freshwater aquarium.