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Shrimp are some of the most rewarding creatures you can keep in a tropical freshwater aquarium. They clean your tank by grazing on algae and leftover food, they come in beautiful colors, and they teach you patience and good aquarium habits. If you are new to shrimp, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know to keep them happy and breeding in a tropical community tank. We will keep the language simple and the advice practical, so you can avoid common mistakes and enjoy a lively, colorful shrimp colony.
Why keep shrimp in a tropical freshwater tank?
Shrimp add both function and beauty to your aquarium. They help control algae and eat leftover food that might otherwise rot and pollute the water. They are active, interesting to watch, and come in many varieties and colors. Because they are small, a group of shrimp can live even in compact tanks, as long as you set up the water quality correctly. Shrimp also encourage a gentle style of fish keeping: stable water, light feeding, and careful maintenance. This style usually benefits the entire tank, not just the shrimp. With the right approach, shrimp can breed in your tank and create a self-sustaining population over time.
Choose the right shrimp species
Neocaridina (Cherry Shrimp and related colors)
For most beginners, Neocaridina davidi is the best choice. These include Red Cherry, Fire Red, Blue Dream, Yellow, Orange, and other color lines. They are hardy, breed in freshwater, and tolerate a wide range of conditions. Ideal temperature is 22 to 25°C (72 to 77°F), but they can do well from about 20 to 26°C (68 to 79°F). Aim for pH 6.5 to 7.8, GH 6 to 12 dGH, KH 2 to 6 dKH, and TDS around 180 to 300 ppm. They are perfect for planted community tanks with peaceful fish and do not require special soil. If you only want one easy shrimp to start with, pick a Neocaridina color you like.
Amano Shrimp (Caridina multidentata)
Amano shrimp are larger, strong algae eaters, and very active. They do not usually breed in a home tank because their larvae need brackish water, so population control is easy. They prefer similar temperatures to Neocaridina, around 20 to 26°C (68 to 79°F), with pH 6.5 to 7.5 and moderate hardness. Because of their size and appetite, they fit well in tropical community tanks with peaceful fish. If your main goal is algae control, a small group of Amano shrimp is often the most effective choice.
Caridina (Crystal, Bee, and Tiger Shrimp)
Caridina cantonensis and related types (such as Crystal Red, Crystal Black, Taiwan Bee, and some Tiger shrimp) are more sensitive and prefer softer, more acidic water. They usually thrive at pH 5.8 to 6.8, GH 4 to 6 dGH, KH 0 to 2 dKH, TDS 100 to 160 ppm, and cooler temperatures around 20 to 24°C (68 to 75°F). Many keepers use an active buffering soil to maintain those low pH conditions. They are stunning but less beginner-friendly and not ideal for most mixed tropical community tanks. If you want Caridina, consider a species-only setup.
Ghost Shrimp and others
Ghost shrimp can be hardy and cheap, but they are often sold as feeders and may be mixed species with different needs. They are fine as a learning shrimp but may be less colorful and sometimes short-lived due to unknown origins. If you want a reliable and predictable experience, start with Neocaridina or Amano shrimp from a trusted source.
Tank size and setup basics
Tank size and numbers
Shrimp do best in stable water, and stability usually improves with volume. A 10-gallon (40-liter) tank is an excellent size for beginners, though you can keep shrimp in 5 gallons if you are careful. For a new colony, start with 10 to 20 Neocaridina shrimp in a 10-gallon tank. This gives you a good genetic mix and enough individuals to feel comfortable and breed. Amano shrimp are larger, so a group of 4 to 8 in a 10- to 20-gallon tank is reasonable. If you plan to keep fish too, make sure the tank is not overcrowded and has lots of cover for the shrimp.
Filtration and flow
A gentle, shrimp-safe filter is key. Sponge filters are ideal because they provide both filtration and biofilm, and they will not suck in shrimplets. If you use a hang-on-back or canister filter, cover the intake with a sponge pre-filter to protect the babies. Keep the flow moderate so the shrimp can graze calmly on surfaces. A small air stone or surface ripple will help keep oxygen levels high, which is important in warm tropical tanks.
Substrate and hardscape
For Neocaridina and Amano shrimp, you can use inert sand or small gravel. Dark substrates make shrimp colors pop and help shy shrimp feel more secure. Add hardscape with lots of texture, such as cholla wood, driftwood, and porous rocks. These surfaces grow biofilm, which is the shrimp’s favorite natural food. If you want to keep Caridina, consider using an active buffering shrimp soil to maintain lower pH and softer water, and avoid mixing them with fish that prefer harder, warmer water.
Plants and biofilm
Plants are your best friend in a shrimp tank. Java moss, Christmas moss, Subwassertang, Java fern, Anubias, Bucephalandra, and floating plants add surface area for biofilm and give cover to shrimplets. Moss in particular is a baby shrimp nursery. You can also add leaf litter like Indian almond leaves or mulberry leaves. As they break down, they feed beneficial microbes and offer natural grazing. The richer the surfaces and micro-life, the more your shrimp will thrive with minimal extra food.
Lighting and oxygen
Use moderate lighting that supports plant growth but does not overheat the water. Shrimp tolerate light well if they have shaded spots under plants and wood. Keep good gas exchange with surface ripples or an air stone. Warm water holds less oxygen, so this small detail helps prevent stress, especially in summer. Avoid covering the surface completely with floating plants; leave some open area for oxygen exchange.
Heating and temperature
For a tropical tank, set the heater around 23 to 25°C (73 to 77°F). Neocaridina and Amano are comfortable here. Avoid temperatures above 28°C (82°F), which reduce oxygen and raise metabolism, making molting and health problems more likely. In very warm rooms, add a fan to blow across the surface to cool the tank, and increase aeration. Stability is more important than hitting a single perfect number, so avoid big daily swings.
Water parameters made simple
The non-negotiables
Ammonia and nitrite must always be 0. Nitrate should be kept low. For Neocaridina and Amano, aim for nitrate under 20 ppm. For sensitive Caridina, keep it under 10 ppm. Use a good test kit and check weekly, especially in the first months. If nitrate climbs, reduce feeding, increase plant growth, and do small water changes.
Target ranges by group
For Neocaridina: pH 6.5 to 7.8, GH 6 to 12 dGH, KH 2 to 6 dKH, TDS 180 to 300 ppm, temperature 20 to 26°C (68 to 79°F). For Amano: a similar range to Neocaridina, with GH 4 to 10 dGH and KH 1 to 6 dKH, and TDS about 120 to 250 ppm. For Caridina: pH 5.8 to 6.8, GH 4 to 6 dGH, KH 0 to 2 dKH, TDS 100 to 160 ppm, temperature 20 to 24°C (68 to 75°F). If this looks like a lot, remember that shrimp care always comes back to stable, clean water.
GH, KH, and TDS explained simply
GH is general hardness, mostly calcium and magnesium, and it affects molting and shell health. KH is carbonate hardness and it buffers pH against swings. TDS measures total dissolved solids and gives a quick snapshot of how many minerals and dissolved substances are in your water. For beginners, test GH and KH with a drop kit and use a TDS meter as a simple guide. If your GH is too low, shrimp can have molting issues. If your KH is very low, pH can swing too much, especially with CO2 or heavy feeding. Keeping these in the target ranges will make everything else easier.
Tap water, RO water, and remineralization
Many keepers of Neocaridina do well with tap water plus a good dechlorinator, as long as their tap fits the recommended ranges. If your tap water is extremely hard or extremely soft, consider using reverse osmosis (RO) water and adding minerals with shrimp-safe salts. A common approach is GH/KH+ salts for Neocaridina to restore both GH and KH, and GH+ salts for Caridina if you are using an active soil that keeps KH near zero. Remineralizing gives you precise control and stable results.
Stability over perfection
Shrimp do not need exact numbers, but they do need consistency. Avoid chasing pH daily or doing big water changes that swing TDS and temperature. Make small adjustments, change water gently, and always match temperature as closely as you can. If your parameters are within range and stable, your shrimp will relax, eat, and breed.
Cycle the tank the right way
Step-by-step to cycle
Cycle the tank before adding shrimp. Add filter and heater, fill with dechlorinated water, and run everything for a day. Add a source of ammonia to grow beneficial bacteria. You can use bottled bacteria and a pinch of fish food or pure ammonia. Plant the tank early and add hardscape so biofilm starts forming. Test ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate every few days. Over 2 to 4 weeks, ammonia should rise and then drop to zero, nitrite should rise and drop to zero, and nitrate should appear. Only when ammonia and nitrite are zero for a week should you add shrimp.
Signs the tank is ready
Look for zero ammonia, zero nitrite, and a small amount of nitrate. Algae film and a bit of diatom dust on surfaces are good signs because they provide food. If you can add a small pinch of food and still get zero ammonia and nitrite the next day, the bacteria colony is likely strong enough for shrimp.
Adding shrimp: quarantine and acclimation
Quarantine plants and decor
New plants can carry snails, planaria, or pesticides. Rinse them well and, if possible, use in-vitro plants that are grown pesticide-free. If you buy potted plants, you can dip them in a mild alum or bleach solution following safe instructions, then rinse thoroughly. Driftwood and rocks should be rinsed and brushed. Taking time here prevents problems later.
Drip acclimation steps
When your shrimp arrive, float the bag to match temperature for 20 to 30 minutes. Then open the bag and transfer the shrimp and bag water to a clean container. Start a slow drip from your tank into the container using airline tubing, about 2 to 4 drops per second. Over 1 to 2 hours, the water volume should double or triple, slowly matching pH, GH, KH, and TDS. Use a soft shrimp net to move the shrimp into the tank and discard the bag water. Reduce the tank lights and let them settle. Do not feed on the first day; let them graze naturally.
Feeding shrimp well (and not too much)
Everyday food
Shrimp love biofilm, algae film, and the microscopic life that grows on surfaces. A mature, planted tank usually provides a large portion of their diet. Supplement with a quality shrimp pellet or wafer that does not fall apart instantly. Choose foods that list plant matter, algae, and some protein. Rotate brands to cover different nutrients. A little variety goes a long way.
Treats and vegetables
Offer blanched vegetables such as zucchini, spinach, kale, or green beans once or twice a week. Blanch them briefly in hot water so they sink. Remove leftovers after a few hours to avoid water quality problems. You can also use specialized shrimp snacks like bee pollen, mulberry leaves, and nettle sticks. These are optional but can boost breeding and color when used sparingly.
How much and how often
Underfeeding is safer than overfeeding. In a shrimp-only tank, feed a small amount once a day or every other day. In a community tank, fish feeding often produces enough leftovers, so reduce shrimp food accordingly. As a rule, feed only what they can finish within two to three hours. If food sits untouched, cut back. Uneaten food is the fastest path to algae and poor water quality.
Supplements and calcium
Mineral balance supports healthy molts and strong shells. If your GH is in range, your shrimp likely get enough calcium and magnesium from the water and their food. You can also add a small piece of cuttlebone or a shrimp mineral block to supply slow-release calcium. Many beginners think iodine dosing is necessary, but in most planted tanks with regular feeding and water changes, it is not needed. Focus on stable GH and good diet rather than bottled fixes.
Tank mates that work—and those that do not
Safe or safer fish
The best tank mates are small, peaceful fish that do not hunt shrimp. Good options include ember tetras, chili rasboras, neon green rasboras (kubotai), celestial pearl danios, pygmy corydoras, and otocinclus catfish. Keep them well-fed but not overfed, and provide dense plants and moss so shrimplets have safe spaces. Even peaceful fish might eat newborns, but with enough cover, a healthy shrimp colony can still grow.
Risky fish to avoid
Avoid bettas, gouramis, barbs, most cichlids, larger tetras, loaches, and any fish with a mouth large enough to swallow shrimp. Many of these fish will hunt shrimplets and sometimes adults. If you want a big, active fish display, consider keeping the shrimp in their own tank or use only larger Amano shrimp, which are less likely to be eaten.
Snails and other invertebrates
Nerite snails, ramshorn snails, and Malaysian trumpet snails are generally safe and helpful. They clean surfaces and stir the substrate. Avoid crayfish and most crabs, which will grab shrimp. If you keep different shrimp species together, know that Neocaridina colors interbreed with each other and will produce mixed, often wild-type colors over time. Caridina varieties can also interbreed within their groups. If you care about color purity, keep only one line per tank.
Breeding in a community tank
Neocaridina breeding basics
Neocaridina breed readily in stable, clean water. Females carry eggs for about three to five weeks before tiny shrimplets are released. Baby shrimp eat biofilm and powdered foods. If your filter intake is covered and the tank has moss and dense plants, many babies will survive even with small fish present. Keep nitrate low, feed lightly, and avoid stress from big water parameter changes. Over time, you will see a range of sizes as the colony grows.
Caridina and Amano breeding notes
Most Caridina types can breed in freshwater, but they need softer, more acidic water and greater stability. Amano shrimp require brackish water for larvae and are very difficult to breed in a community tank. If your goal is breeding success without complex setups, choose Neocaridina first. If you want to try Caridina later, plan a separate shrimp-specific tank.
Protecting shrimplets
For better survival, provide fine-leaf plants, moss, leaf litter, wood with crevices, and a gentle filter intake. Offer micro-foods like powdered shrimp food, crushed pellets, or naturally grown biofilm on catappa leaves. Avoid strong currents and avoid deep vacuuming that would disturb the areas where babies hide and feed.
Molting, health, and common problems
Molting issues
Shrimp molt to grow, and problems usually come from low minerals or stress from sudden water changes. If you see failed molts, check GH and increase it slowly if it is low. Keep temperature stable and avoid large TDS swings. Provide calcium sources and high-quality food. A healthy shrimp should molt cleanly and be active again within a day.
Parasites and pests
Planaria and hydra can harm shrimplets. They often arrive with plants or from overfeeding. Reduce feeding and clean the substrate surface gently. Some treatments exist, but many medications can hurt shrimp. Prevention is best: quarantine plants, rinse decor, and keep to a light feeding routine. If you must treat, carefully research shrimp-safe options and test on a small area or hospital tank first.
Copper and medications
Shrimp are sensitive to copper. Many fish medications use copper at levels that are toxic to invertebrates. Always read labels and avoid dosing copper in a shrimp tank. Plant fertilizers often list trace copper at very low levels, which are typically safe when used as directed. When in doubt, start with half doses and watch your shrimp closely.
Heat waves and oxygen dips
High temperature reduces dissolved oxygen, and shrimp can suffocate even if your water looks clear. In hot weather, increase surface agitation, lower the room temperature if possible, use a fan for evaporative cooling, and reduce feeding. Keep the lid slightly open for air flow and avoid turning off the filter. Oxygen is as important as clean water for shrimp health.
Maintenance routine that works
Weekly tasks
Do a 10 to 20 percent water change once a week for most community tanks. Match temperature and, as much as possible, TDS and pH to avoid shock. Wipe the glass, gently swish the sponge pre-filter in tank water to clear debris, and remove any visible uneaten food. Trim plants to keep good flow. Never deep-clean the whole filter at once, because you might lose the beneficial bacteria your shrimp rely on.
Monthly tasks
Check GH, KH, pH, nitrate, and TDS. Compare to your earlier readings and look for trends. If TDS slowly climbs, it might be from overfeeding or too much evaporation top-offs. In that case, replace more water or reduce feeding. If GH or KH drift, adjust with your remineralizer. Keep small changes, and wait a few days before making another adjustment. Slow and steady is safe for shrimp.
Water change technique
Use a gentle siphon and avoid deep vacuuming in planted areas where shrimp graze. Pick up light debris on the surface of the substrate. If your shrimp are very small, put a fine mesh over the siphon intake. When you refill, pour slowly over a plate or use a small return hose so you do not blast the substrate or shrimplets. If you use RO water, remineralize before adding it to the tank to avoid sudden TDS drops.
Troubleshooting quick answers
Sudden deaths after a water change
This often comes from a big swing in temperature, TDS, or chlorine/chloramine not fully neutralized. Always dose a good dechlorinator, match temperature, and if possible, match TDS and pH. Keep water changes small and frequent rather than large and rare.
Shrimp hiding after adding fish
Shy behavior is normal at first. Add more cover with moss, fine plants, and wood. Feed fish lightly so they do not hunt out of boredom. Over a week or two, shrimp usually come out more, especially when they feel safe and have places to retreat.
Algae boom
Shrimp eat some algae but cannot control a heavy bloom alone. Reduce feeding, shorten the light period, increase plant mass, and keep weekly water changes. Amano shrimp are great helpers, but the root fix is always better balance, not more livestock.
Planaria sightings
Planaria often appear when there is excess food. Cut feeding in half, siphon the top of the substrate, and remove any leftover food within a few hours of feeding. In many cases, the population declines naturally when you correct the cause.
Pale colors and weak activity
Pale shrimp may be stressed or lacking minerals. Check temperature for heat stress, verify GH is in range, and make sure nitrate is not too high. Offer a varied diet and keep the environment calm. Colors often deepen as shrimp settle and molt in stable conditions.
Conclusion
The best way to keep shrimp in a tropical freshwater tank is to focus on stability and simplicity. Choose hardy species like Neocaridina or Amano shrimp, build a planted environment with gentle filtration and many textured surfaces, and keep your water clean and consistent. Learn your tap water, or use RO with proper remineralization. Add shrimp slowly, acclimate carefully, and feed lightly so biofilm can do most of the work. Pick peaceful tank mates and give shrimplets safe places to hide. With these steps, your shrimp will reward you with constant activity, natural cleaning, and, in many cases, steady breeding. A well-kept shrimp tank is not complicated; it is patient. Start with good habits, and your bright, busy shrimp colony will thrive for years.