We are reader supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Also, as an Amazon affiliate, we earn from qualifying purchases.
Planted aquariums are living gardens under water. They are peaceful to watch, fun to build, and, once you learn the basics, easier to care for than many people think. This beginner-friendly guide will take you step by step from planning and equipment to planting, algae control, and weekly care. You will learn which plants are forgiving, what settings to use for lights and filters, how to add fish safely, and how to keep your tank healthy for the long term. Use this as a roadmap you can follow at your own pace, whether your goal is a small desktop tank or a lush, medium-sized aquascape.
Planning Your First Planted Tank
Define Your Goals
Before you buy anything, decide what you want. Do you prefer a low-maintenance, slow-growing tank with hardy plants? Or do you dream of fast growth and a dense lawn that needs more care and maybe CO2? Write down a simple goal like “relaxed, easy plants with shrimp” or “green forest with schooling fish.” Your goal will guide choices for light, substrate, and plants. It will also set realistic expectations for how much time and budget you need to invest.
Choose a Tank Size That Helps You Succeed
Contrary to what many people think, very small tanks are not easier. Water parameters swing more quickly in small volumes. A sweet spot for beginners is 60 to 90 liters (15 to 24 gallons). They are big enough to be stable but small enough to fit in apartments and keep costs reasonable. If you must go smaller, aim for at least 30 liters (8 gallons) and choose hardy plants and light stocking. Larger than 100 liters (26 gallons) is also great if you have space and budget, because it gives plants room to grow and makes scaping easier.
Pick the Right Location
Place the tank on a sturdy, level stand where you can easily access it for water changes. Avoid direct sunlight, which can fuel algae and overheat the tank. Make sure there is a power outlet nearby for lights, filter, and heater, and that you can run a hose or carry buckets to the sink. A timer-controlled power strip is useful from day one. Leave a little room behind the tank for filter hoses and cables.
Essential Equipment Overview
The Tank and Lid
A clear glass tank with clean silicone lines is fine. A lid or glass cover is optional but helpful: it reduces evaporation, keeps fish from jumping, and protects lights from humidity. Rimless tanks look modern but need careful handling to avoid scratches and chips. Always use a foam mat or the manufacturer’s leveling pad under rimless tanks to spread weight evenly.
Substrate: The Foundation of Your Garden
You have two main choices: active soil or inert substrate. Active soils (aquarium plant soils) gently lower pH and KH and feed roots. They are excellent for most plants and shrimp. They can cost more, but they make plant growth easier. Inert substrates (sand or gravel) are cheaper and very clean, but contain no nutrients. If you choose inert substrate, use root tabs under heavy root feeders like swords and crypts. A good depth is 5 to 7 cm (2 to 3 inches). Create gentle slopes from back to front to add depth and help debris move forward for easy cleaning.
Filtration and Flow
Use a filter rated for 5 to 7 times your tank volume per hour. For a 60-liter tank, look for 300 to 420 liters per hour. A hang-on-back filter is easy to service and works well. A canister filter is quiet and powerful, great for medium tanks. Gentle flow helps distribute CO2 and nutrients, prevents dead spots, and keeps water clear. Aim the outlet along the surface to create a soft ripple. Avoid blasting plants directly, which can uproot them and stress fish.
Lighting Basics
Light powers photosynthesis, so it must be strong enough but not excessive. For low to medium tanks, choose an LED made for planted aquariums. As a simple rule, aim for a medium brightness and a daily photoperiod of 6 to 8 hours when starting. If the light has dimming, begin at 50 to 70 percent intensity. Too much light without enough nutrients or CO2 leads to algae. A timer is essential for consistency. Color temperature in the 6,000 to 7,000 K range gives a natural look and supports plant growth.
CO2 Options
CO2 is like plant turbo. It can create faster growth, richer colors, and carpets. But it is not mandatory. Many beautiful beginner tanks run without injected CO2 using easy plants and moderate light. If you want CO2, a pressurized system with a regulator and diffuser is the safest and most stable choice. Start around one bubble per second for small tanks and adjust slowly while watching fish and a drop checker. Aim for a light green drop checker during the photoperiod. Never let fish gasp at the surface; reduce CO2 if they do.
Heater, Thermometer, and Timers
Most tropical plants and fish prefer 22 to 26°C (72 to 79°F). Use a reliable heater sized at about 3 to 5 watts per liter for small tanks, or follow the manufacturer’s guide. A simple glass or digital thermometer helps you monitor stability. Plug lights and CO2 solenoid (if used) into timers for hands-off consistency. Keep CO2 on only during the light period, typically 1 hour before lights on to 1 hour before lights off.
Water Conditioner and Test Kits
Use a conditioner to remove chlorine and chloramine from tap water. Keep basic test kits for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. A pH and KH test is helpful if you run CO2 or keep sensitive species. You do not need to test every day, but frequent checks in the first few weeks help you learn your tank’s behavior and catch issues early.
Water Chemistry Made Simple
Temperature
Most beginner plants and community fish are happy at 24 to 25°C (75 to 77°F). Cooler water can benefit some species and reduce algae growth, but do not make sudden changes. If your room is warm, a lid helps limit evaporation, but ensure enough surface agitation for gas exchange.
pH, KH, and GH
pH describes acidity. KH (carbonate hardness) buffers pH and affects CO2 availability. GH (general hardness) is the calcium and magnesium level that plants and animals need. For most planted tanks, pH 6.5 to 7.5, KH 2 to 6 dKH, and GH 4 to 12 dGH are comfortable ranges. Active soil naturally lowers pH and KH, which many plants love. If your tap water is very hard, you can still succeed. Choose hardy plants and consider mixing in some reverse osmosis water if needed, but do not chase numbers every day.
Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate
Ammonia and nitrite should both be at 0 ppm once the tank is cycled. Nitrate is less toxic and also a plant nutrient. Keep nitrate in the 5 to 20 ppm range. If nitrate stays near 0, plants may starve and algae may try to take advantage. If nitrate climbs above 40 ppm, increase water changes or reduce feeding and stocking.
Tap Water vs. RO Water
Most beginners should use dechlorinated tap water. It is easy and consistent. Only consider RO (reverse osmosis) water if you have very hard water, want to keep sensitive shrimp, or aim for advanced plants. If you use RO, remineralize to provide GH and a bit of KH, and be consistent with your recipe.
Easy Plants for Beginners
Foreground Choices
For the front area, choose low-growing plants that do not need strong light. Popular choices include dwarf sagittaria, Marsilea hirsuta, and Helanthium tenellum (pygmy chain sword). For a true carpet, try Monte Carlo if you can offer medium light and maybe liquid carbon or CO2. Plant foregrounds in small clumps spaced a few centimeters apart so they fill in naturally.
Midground Favorites
The midground frames your hardscape. Cryptocoryne species (like wendtii), Java fern varieties attached to wood or rock, and Anubias nana petite make great mid-height features. These are slow growers that tolerate low to medium light and do not need CO2. Trim old or damaged leaves after planting to encourage fresh growth.
Background Workhorses
Fast stem plants help outcompete algae and absorb extra nutrients. Try hygrophila, ludwigia repens, rotala rotundifolia (in moderate light), or water wisteria. Vallisneria and dwarf water lettuce roots can also create a background screen. Plant stems in small groups, leaving space between bunches so light reaches lower leaves.
Epiphytes and Floaters
Epiphytes grow on wood and rocks. Anubias, bucephalandra, and Java fern should not have their rhizomes buried. Tie or glue them to hardscape and they will slowly attach. Floating plants like frogbit and Salvinia are excellent nutrient sponges. They also shade the tank, which can be helpful if your light is strong. Thin floaters weekly so they do not block all light.
Designing the Aquascape
Choose a Style You Like
Nature-style scapes mimic forests and riverbanks using wood and varied plants. Iwagumi uses stones, open space, and carpets for a clean look. Jungle style is lush and wild, often low-tech and forgiving. For beginners, a simple nature or jungle layout is easiest. Focus on a clear focal point and a balanced mix of textures and leaf shapes.
Hardscape Placement Tips
Use the rule of thirds: place your main stone or wood near one of the intersections rather than centered. Tilt rocks slightly to match the “flow” direction you want viewers to feel. Create layers: a higher back, lower front. Leave open sand or low plant areas as “negative space” so the scape does not feel crowded. Test layouts dry until you like the view from your normal seating position.
Plant Layout Strategy
Put low plants at the front, mid-height plants around hardscape and midground, and tall plants at the back corners to frame the scene. Group the same species together in small clusters for a natural look rather than mixing single stems all over. Repeat two or three plant types across the scape to create harmony. Use a few accent colors (red or bronze) sparingly for impact.
Dry Start Option
For carpets, a dry start can work well. Plant the carpet in moist substrate, keep the tank covered, and mist daily for 4 to 6 weeks. Provide 8 hours of light. When the carpet has spread and rooted, slowly fill the tank and begin normal operation. This method avoids floating plants and helps roots establish, but it takes patience and good humidity management.
Step-by-Step Setup
Prepare the Tank
Rinse the tank with fresh water only. Do not use soap. Place your mat and position the tank. Check the stand is level using a small level tool. Gather everything you need: substrate, hardscape, tweezers, scissors, a spray bottle, and a bucket.
Add Substrate and Hardscape
Pour substrate and shape the slope. Spritz with water until damp like a wrung-out sponge. Arrange stones and wood. Test different angles and heights. Make sure hardscape is stable and will not shift when you fill. If needed, use small stones hidden under soil to prop pieces securely.
Planting Techniques
Use tweezers for small plants. Split potted plants into several small plugs to cover more area. For epiphytes, tie or glue them to rocks and wood; do not bury the rhizome. For stems, plant 3 to 5 stems per group, spaced a few centimeters apart so light reaches the base. Heavier stems can be planted deeper to prevent floating. Mist plants often during planting to prevent drying.
Fill and Start Equipment
Place a plastic bag or plate on the substrate and pour water slowly onto it to prevent craters. Fill halfway, plant any final pieces, then fill fully. Start the filter and heater. If using CO2, start it about one hour before lights. Add water conditioner if you filled from tap. Set your light timer to 6 hours for the first two weeks.
Cycling With Plants
Plants help cycle the tank by absorbing ammonia and nitrate. Add a pinch of fish food or a dose of bottled ammonia to feed the beneficial bacteria, or add a bottled bacteria starter. Test every few days. When ammonia and nitrite read 0 for a week and nitrate is present, the tank is ready for first livestock. Start with a small clean-up crew like snails or shrimp and a small group of hardy fish. Patience here prevents stress later.
Your First 30 Days
Keep the light at 6 hours for the first two weeks, then increase to 7 to 8 hours if plants are growing and algae is under control. Do 30 to 50 percent water changes twice a week for the first two weeks to remove excess nutrients from new soil and to stabilize conditions. Trim melting leaves and replant any stems that have grown tall. Start light fertilizing at week two if plants look pale or slow.
Lighting and Photoperiod
How Bright Is Bright Enough
For most easy plants, a medium light level is best. If your light is adjustable, begin at 50 to 70 percent power. If it is fixed, shorten the photoperiod to control algae. Strong light without matching nutrients and CO2 causes trouble. It is better to go a bit dim and stable than bright and unstable. Watch plant behavior: compact growth and steady new leaves mean the level is good.
Photoperiod Timing
Use a timer for consistency. Start with 6 hours on daily. After two weeks, extend to 7 hours if all looks good, and later to 8 hours if needed. More than 8 hours is rarely necessary for beginners. Consider a midday pause only if you have algae issues; otherwise keep it simple with one block of light.
Managing Algae Through Light
If you see dust algae or hair algae, reduce intensity by 10 to 20 percent or shorten the photoperiod by an hour for a couple weeks. Combine this with manual removal and better nutrient balance. Avoid big, frequent changes to light; plants adapt slowly and wild swings can stress them.
Fertilization Basics
Root Feeders vs. Water Column Feeders
Some plants prefer nutrients at their roots (swords, crypts, vallisneria). Others are water column feeders (stems, floaters, mosses). If you use inert substrate, add root tabs under root feeders every 2 to 3 months. Even with active soil, root tabs can boost heavy feeders later. For the water column, dose a comprehensive liquid fertilizer that contains nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and trace elements like iron.
A Simple Dosing Schedule
For low to medium light without CO2, dose a comprehensive fertilizer 1 to 2 times per week as the bottle suggests, starting at half dose and adjusting based on plant response. For CO2 tanks with faster growth, dose 3 to 6 small doses per week or follow an established routine like lean dosing. Perform weekly water changes of 30 to 50 percent to reset nutrients and prevent imbalances. Consistency matters more than chasing exact numbers.
Signs of Deficiency
Pale new leaves can signal iron deficiency. Yellow old leaves and slow growth can suggest nitrogen shortage. Holes or weak edges may be potassium-related. However, many issues also connect to CO2 and light. Before adding extra fertilizer, check that CO2 is stable, light is not excessive, and maintenance is regular.
CO2 in Detail
Do You Need CO2
You can grow a lovely beginner tank without injected CO2. Choose easy plants, keep light moderate, and be patient. CO2 becomes useful if you want carpets, red stems, dense bushes, or faster growth. It also gives you more control over shape and color, but it adds cost and complexity.
Pressurized vs. DIY Systems
Pressurized systems use a cylinder, regulator, and diffuser or reactor. They are stable, adjustable, and safe when used correctly. DIY yeast systems are cheap but fluctuate and need frequent resets; they are not ideal for beginners who want stability. Liquid carbon additives are not CO2, but they can help in low-tech tanks by limiting algae and offering a small boost to some plants. Use liquid carbon carefully and never overdose around sensitive species like vallisneria.
Monitoring and Safety
Use a drop checker with 4 dKH solution to estimate CO2 levels; aim for light green during the light period. Observe fish closely, especially after you adjust. If fish breathe fast or hover at the surface, reduce CO2 immediately and increase surface agitation. Turn CO2 off at night and ensure the room is ventilated. Always secure cylinders upright and away from heat.
Livestock for Planted Tanks
Clean-Up Crew
Nerite snails eat many kinds of algae and do not breed in freshwater. Amano shrimp are powerful algae eaters and excellent helpers in new tanks. Otocinclus catfish are gentle grazers best added to mature tanks after biofilm develops. Add clean-up crew slowly, and make sure there is enough food for them to thrive.
Peaceful Community Fish
Choose small, peaceful species that will not dig up plants. Good options include neon tetras, ember tetras, harlequin rasboras, and small rasboras and danios. For the bottom, consider corydoras (soft sand is best) or kuhli loaches. Avoid large or plant-nipping fish like big cichlids or goldfish in a planted beginner tank. Stock gradually to allow the filter and plants to adjust.
Stocking Levels and Quarantine
A simple rule is to stock lightly and prioritize plant mass before fish mass. Add one group at a time, waiting at least two weeks between additions. Quarantine new fish if possible to prevent disease. Feed small amounts once or twice daily so food is eaten within a minute. Uneaten food becomes algae fuel and harms water quality.
Algae Control Without Stress
Prevention Is Easier Than Cure
Balance light, nutrients, and CO2. Start with shorter photoperiods, maintain regular water changes, and plant densely from day one. Keep filters clean and flow gentle but steady. Add a moderate number of fast-growing stems early to help stabilize the system while slower plants settle.
Common Algae and Simple Fixes
Diatoms (brown dust) often appear in new tanks. Wipe them off and do water changes; they usually fade after a few weeks. Green hair algae points to too much light or unstable CO2; reduce intensity and improve flow around plants, and remove algae manually. Black beard algae often appears in low, inconsistent CO2 and high organics; stabilize CO2, increase surface ripple slightly, and spot-treat affected hardscape outside the tank during a water change if needed. Always focus on the root cause, not just removal.
When to Reset and When to Wait
If algae covers everything despite corrections, a temporary blackout of 3 days can help alongside a deep clean. However, many algae issues improve simply by planting more, trimming damaged leaves, reducing light, and keeping up with water changes. Do not tear down your tank at the first sign of algae; most problems are fixable with small, steady changes.
Routine Maintenance
Weekly Tasks
Change 30 to 50 percent of the water. Clean the glass with a soft sponge or scraper. Gently vacuum debris from open areas, avoiding deep disturbance in planted zones. Trim and replant stems that reach the surface. Squeeze filter sponges in removed tank water if flow drops, never under tap water. Dose fertilizer after the water change. Check equipment and confirm the timer schedule.
Monthly and Seasonal Tasks
Inspect all hoses and seals on filters and CO2 lines. Deep clean the filter media by swishing in tank water to remove sludge. Thin floating plants to keep light reaching the bottom. Refresh root tabs under heavy feeders every 2 to 3 months. In hotter months, monitor temperature and consider a small fan for cooling if needed.
Travel and Holidays
Use a timer for lights and CO2 as usual. Do a water change and trim plants before you leave. Feed fish a little less for a few days so they are used to lighter feeding; healthy fish can easily handle a short fast. Auto feeders can help, but test them for a week before travel. Ask a friend only to feed the amount you pre-measured and to top up evaporated water if needed.
Troubleshooting Quick Guide
Plant Melting
Crypts and some swords often melt leaves after planting. This is normal as they adapt. Do not throw them out. Keep roots undisturbed, maintain stable conditions, and new leaves will emerge. If all leaves melt, leave the rhizome or crown in place and wait two to four weeks.
Cloudy Water
Cloudiness soon after setup is often harmless bacterial bloom. It clears with time, good flow, and regular water changes. If water smells bad, check for trapped organic debris and make sure your filter is working. Avoid overfeeding. Add more fast-growing plants to help polish the water.
Snails and Pests
Small snails can hitchhike on plants. Many are harmless and even helpful. If numbers boom, it usually means overfeeding. Reduce food, manually remove some, and consider adding a few assassin snails if needed. Avoid chemical treatments in a planted tank, as they can harm shrimp and plants.
Equipment Failures
Always have a backup plan. Keep a spare heater for emergencies. If the filter stops, clean the impeller and intake. If the light fails, reduce the photoperiod for a few days after replacement to avoid shocking plants. Label cables and keep drip loops on all wires to prevent water from reaching outlets.
Budget and Shopping List
Minimum Gear That Works
A sturdy tank, active soil or sand with root tabs, a reliable filter, an adjustable planted LED, a heater, a timer, a water conditioner, and basic test kits are enough to start strong. Add long tweezers and scissors for easier planting and trimming. With these basics, you can grow a healthy low to medium-tech aquascape.
Nice-to-Have Upgrades
A pressurized CO2 kit with a quality regulator, a glass diffuser or inline diffuser, and a drop checker will expand your plant choices. A glass or stainless steel lily pipe set can improve flow and looks. A high-clarity glass tank enhances viewing. A powerhead can help circulation in larger or densely planted tanks.
Cost-Saving Tips
Buy plants in larger portions and split them yourself. Start with hardy species that do not need constant replacement. Choose a reliable mid-range light rather than the brightest premium unit. Look for secondhand tanks and filters in good condition, but always replace worn seals and tubing. Remember that patience is cheaper than chasing quick fixes.
A 90-Day Roadmap
Weeks 0 to 2
Set up the tank, plant densely, and start with 6 hours of light. Do two water changes per week. Begin light fertilizing at half dose in week two. Test ammonia and nitrite twice per week and observe plant response. Add a small clean-up crew if parameters are stable.
Weeks 3 to 6
Increase light to 7 to 8 hours if plants are healthy. Add your first small fish group. Continue weekly water changes of 30 to 50 percent. Trim and replant stems to thicken growth. Adjust fertilizer based on plant color and growth rate. If algae appears, reduce light by an hour and add a few fast-growing stems.
Weeks 7 to 12
Introduce the rest of your planned fish slowly. Fine-tune flow so leaves gently sway and there are no dead spots. Consider adding root tabs under heavy feeders. Establish a trimming routine so plants keep their shape and do not shade each other. By day 90, your tank should look full and stable, with a rhythm of maintenance that feels easy.
Common Myths and Mistakes
Myths to Ignore
Myth: Planted tanks always need CO2. Reality: Many plants thrive without it under moderate light and good care. Myth: You cannot keep fish while plants grow. Reality: Plants and fish support each other once the cycle is stable. Myth: More light is always better. Reality: Excess light causes algae unless you match nutrients and CO2.
Mistakes to Avoid
Do not start with very bright light and long hours. Do not skimp on plant mass at the beginning; more plants make success easier. Do not overclean filters to crystal perfection; beneficial bacteria live there. Do not add too many fish at once. Do not chase exact numbers daily; focus on stability and observation.
Ethical and Safety Notes
Responsible Sourcing
Buy plants from reputable stores that avoid wild collecting of rare species. Choose captive-bred fish when possible. Do not release any aquarium life into local waterways. If you must rehome, use community groups or local shops.
Electrical and Home Safety
Use drip loops on all cords. Keep power strips above floor level and away from splashes. Unplug equipment before putting your hands in the tank. Dry your hands before touching plugs. Make sure your stand can support the full weight of the filled tank and hardscape.
Conclusion
A successful planted tank is the result of a few steady habits: plan your layout, plant generously, use moderate light, change water regularly, and make small, patient adjustments. Start simple with hardy plants and a clear routine, then add complexity like CO2 and challenging species when you feel confident. The reward is a living scene that grows and changes in your home, a peaceful window into nature that you created yourself. With this beginner guide and a little patience, you can build a thriving planted aquarium that brings you daily joy.